Wool Talks 1:01 with
Cradle to Cradle Certified®

Wool talks 1:01 with Nienke Steen from Cradle to Cradle Certified, a global standard for materials, products and systems with a positive impact on people and the planet.

1. Like all stories, let’s start from the beginning. When, why and how was the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute created?

The Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute was founded in 2010 as an independent, global non-profit organization, with the aim to provide the standard and methodology for companies to apply the Cradle to Cradle® design philosophy created by William McDonough and Dr. Michael Braungart.

2. What is the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute’s mission?

Our mission is to lead, inspire and enable all stakeholders across the global economy to create and use innovative products and materials that positively impact people and planet.

3. What does it mean to be Cradle to Cradle Certified?

It means that certified products are safe, circular and responsibly made. Cradle to Cradle Certified assesses the safety, circularity and responsibility of materials and products across five categories of sustainability performance:
- Material Health: ensuring materials are safe for humans and the environment
- Product Circularity: enabling a circular economy through regenerative products and process design
- Clean Air & Climate Protection: protecting clean air, promoting renewable energy, and reducing harmful emissions
- Water & Soil Stewardship: safeguarding clean water and healthy soils
- Social Fairness: respecting human rights and contributing to a fair and equitable society

4. Can any product, system or service apply for Cradle to Cradle Certified certification?

The Cradle to Cradle Certified Products Program applies to products and materials, including sub-assemblies. Some product categories are not eligible for certification:
1. Products that are contrary to the intent of the Cradle to Cradle principles,
2. Products that the program requirements were not written to address, like food, beverages, and other products intended for ingestion.
3. Products that are not in compliance with applicable local, state, and federal laws and regulations.

5. What are the main differences between the four levels (bronze, silver, gold, platinum?

The Cradle to Cradle Certified Products Program is based on the concept of continuous improvement and, thus, there are four possible levels of achievement within each of the standard’s five key requirement categories: Bronze, Silver, Gold, and Platinum. To reach a desired achievement level within each category, the product must meet all of the requirements for that level, in addition to the requirements at all lower levels.
Over the levels, brands, manufacturers, retailers and product designers, are increasingly challenged to work to:
- Prioritize action across five sustainability focus areas: Material Health, Product Circularity, Clean Air & Climate Protection, Water & Soil Stewardship, and Social Fairness
- Enact roadmaps for change from product innovation to operations
- Transform business models systems and collaboration throughout the value chain
- Verify sustainability performance and measure progress
- Lead industry transformation towards a safe, circular and equitable future

The higher the level, the more stringent requirements will apply and more demonstrated action is needed.

6. Engraw’s Wool top has achieved Cradle to Cradle Certified Level Silver overall, and Level Gold in the Material Health category What does this mean?

We take the lowest level that a product achieves in any one category as the overall C2C Certified level for the product. Engraw reached Gold level in two categories, Social Fairness and Material Health, which means that the Wool top is made with respect for human rights and without hazardous chemicals. Engraw also received a C2C Certified Material Health Certificate™ at the Gold level which can be used to prove that the wool top is a validated safe input for other supply chain partners.

7. What are, in your experience, the main obstacles for fashion industry actors to achieve this certification?

The product went through our certification program to improve the way we make, use, and re-use things recognizing two metabolisms, the biological metabolism and the technical metabolism, with a goal to leave a beneficial footprint for human society and the environment.
The Cradle to Cradle Certified Product Standard is the most holistic standard in our industry. This means that a product must be assessed on all the five categories and must deal with thorough and strict requirements. The material and all chemicals used and released must be assessed and validated and ready for the circular economy. All natural resources, effluents and labor conditions in production are taken into account. Not all fashion companies are so dedicated to investing in traceability, transparency and innovation to get ready for our circular future as the frontrunners in our program.

8. There are many benefits from obtaining Cradle to Cradle Certified, which one would you say is the most valuable?

Our standard methodology is set up to lead and guide transformation from a linear model to a circular model. It helps companies to understand and communicate impact. To have the right dialogue to gather the data within the supply chain. It is a validation of claims, a quality seal, that is essential to the business models of today.

9. In which direction do you see these certifications going or evolving to, in the next 5 to 10 years?

We need to operate fully circularly in 2050. That is 28 years ahead, but we are now just below 1%, so action is needed. I would say in five to 10 years validation of circular claims by using third party validation are likely to become mainstream.
I think the need for holistic actionable certification programs is growing. Clear guidance is needed for the transformation of the way we design and make things C2CPII has standardized product circularity for many sectors for trustworthy communication. Alignment between the different frameworks will be key to success.

10. If a company wants to start the journey of becoming more sustainable, where would you recommend to start?

I would say to start at defining your policy and core products. What are the materials and chemicals in it? What resources have been used to make it and what about the emissions? Who made your products under what conditions?
After this status quo assessment you can start building your sustainable business model by creating a futureproof vision and strategy, including a circular product strategy and KPI’s to have all employees engaged in your sustainable journey.